Power Filter

Power filters come in a wide variety of sizes and usually have one or two slots that hold fiber pads containing a small amount of activated carbon. They offer major advantages. The equipment and replacement pads are inexpensive. Changing the pads is quick and simple on most models.

The simplest power filters hang on the back of the tank. Water enters through a siphon that extends nearly to the bottom of the aquarium. An electric pump pulls water through the filter pads and returns it to the tank via a spillway.

Choose a model that accepts two filter pads and change only one at a time. This way, you do not throw away all your beneficial nitrifying bacteria each time you toss out a pad.

Corner Box Filter

One of the oldest devices in the aquarium hobby, the corner box filter was originally designed for small aquariums. This filter contains a single airstone attached to a pump that pushes water through layers of activated charcoal and floss contained in a plastic box. The filter itself rests on the gravel bed inside the tank.

Corner filters are inefficient because they take a long time to filter all the water in the tank. They can also be noisy and may float around the tank if they are not weighted down properly. A more efficient power filter is a better choice.

Aquarium Monitoring Water Conditions

During the conditioning period, monitor the nitrite level daily. Initially, no nitrite will be present. As the ammonia-converting bacteria begin to multiply, the nitrite level will rise as ammonia is converted. Within a couple of weeks to a month, the nitrite level will peak and then begin to decline. This event signals the development of nitrite-converting bacteria, which grow more slowly than the ammonia-converters. As nitrite becomes nitrate, you will observe a precipitous decline in nitrite. When the level of nitrite reaches zero, the conditioning process is complete.

A check of the nitrate level at this point will reveal that the level, originally zero, has now risen considerably.

Aquarium Conditioning Time

Conditioning time varies depending on the temperature of the water and the type and number of filtration units used. This period may take anywhere from three weeks to several months. The process will begin only after your starter fish have been introduced into the tank. A few hardy species, such as Guppies or a single Betta, should be added to the new aquarium to start the conditioning of the biological filter.

Ammonia levels begin to peak within seven to fourteen days, and eventually the helpful bacteria increase in numbers to detoxify the ammonia into nitrites. Next, the nitrites will accumulate to higher levels and other types of bacteria will begin to convert them to nitrates. Eventually, nitrite levels drop and the conditioning period ends. Nitrate levels will continue to slowly increase over time, but can be maintained at proper levels through frequent water changes.

Aquarium Water Hardness

The dH (degree of hardness) is simply the amount of dissolved mineral salts in the aquarium water. You can check the hardness of your tap water with a simple aquarium test kit. Bettas prefer soft water with a dH of less than 25. One way to dilute hardness is to add distilled water from the grocery store. Reverse osmosis units will also reduce hardness, but they are expensive and use a lot of tap water to produce a small amount of mineral-free water. Consider using one only if you need to soften a lot of water.

Aquarium Chlorine

City water departments add chlorine and chloramine to drinking water to eliminate harmful bacteria and to make it safe for human consumption. However, these chemicals can be deadly to your aquarium fish and must be removed. Bottled chlorine remover, which you can buy at your local aquarium shop, will neutralize the chlorine and chloramine in your tap water. Simply follow the label’s directions and add the chemical to the water before any fish or live plants are put into the aquarium.

are put into the aquarium. Another way to remove chlorine is to aerate the water for 12 hours or let it sit in open buckets for 48 hours. However, bottled chlorine remover works in seconds.

Aquarium Tubing

Aquarium tubing made of silicone/rubber material is easy to work with. Tinted blue-green by the manufacturer, it blends in nicely, virtually disappearing under water. Rubber tubing can be bent around decorations without kinking and does not crack with age. To slide tubing easily onto the pump outlet or the stem of an airstone, hold it briefly under very hot tap water to soften it slightly. It returns to normal when it cools.

Aquarium Airstones

Airstones increase oxygenation in the water by dispersing the air supplied by the pump. Aquarium dealers sell airstones made of wood, plastic, and ceramics. Depending upon the material, airstones require replacement every few months.

Aquarium Air Pumps

Inexpensive air pumps can be found in any aquarium shop. Your air pump should sit above the aquarium, if possible, to avoid any backflow of water if the power is shut off. You may want to get a valve to control the air flow. Placing a single valve in line with the pump restricts the flow, but it also makes the pump work harder. It may become noisy and will require more frequent replacement. Instead, use a dual valve. Connect one to the airstone in the tank and use the other to bleed off excess air pressure into the atmosphere.

Aquarium Rocks

Aquarium supply stores sell a variety of tank decorations that enhance the habitat for your fish. Some are plastic or ceramic creations and others are simply attractive rocks and stones. By buying these tank decorations from the dealer, you are avoiding contaminating your tank with toxic substances and water chemistry-modifying agents. Avoid the temptation to collect your own rocks until you know how to identify each kind and its influence on your aquarium.

If you add rocks to your aquarium, place them so they won’t topple. Never lean rocks up against the side of the tank for support, because they can fall and injure your Betta or break the glass. Smooth, waterworn stones look natural in the aquarium; angular blocks do not. In addition, smooth stones don’t have sharp, rough edges that could hurt your fish.

One way to create a permanent and safe effect is to glue rocks together using a silicone aquarium sealer. This will keep your rock display in place if burrowing bottom dwellers begin to dig around them. Always allow the sealer to dry for several days before you place the assembly in the aquarium.

Aquarium Siphons

Siphoning unwanted debris from the tank is a regular part of good maintenance. The siphon can be simply a length of plastic hose. Place one end in the water and the other in a bucket on the floor. Suck on the lower end to start water flowing. Hobbyists squeamish about this procedure will find self-starting and even electrically powered siphons in their local aquarium shop.

A handy accessory for cleaning the gravel bed consists of a long funnel, wider in diameter than the hose, attached to the intake end of the siphon. This design enables water and fine debris to be siphoned out, while leaving heavier gravel or sand on the bottom. I find this gadget to be a good investment.

Change some water and siphon out debris once a week and your tank will remain sparkling clean and healthy. Some hobbyists like to do a larger water change and more thorough vacuuming every month, as well. Choose a routine that suits your schedule and stick with it.

Aquarium Scrapers

A scraper is a great tool that can be used to remove algae from the aquarium glass. Most scrapers come with a two-sided head. One side has a soft sponge for wiping away loose algae. The other side of the scraper contains a tough scrub pad for removing encrusted algae and lime deposits. Most scrapers are made of plastic and have a long handle for reaching difficult spots in the aquarium. The other end of this tool looks like a small fork and is great for turning over gravel and planting.

Aquarium Nets

Nets are available in a variety of sizes and designs. Smaller nets are generally used for catching fry and little fish. The fine webbing in these nets is soft and similar in structure to cheesecloth. Small nets are also handy for scooping out uneaten food and suspended debris from the water.

Larger nets are usually used for capturing fish. You will find that using two large nets to capture a Betta is much easier than trying to do the job with only one. Your fish can easily be coaxed into the center of one net by gently nudging it with the other. You should buy several nets of different sizes so that you will be prepared to handle almost any task.

Aquarium Covers and Light Hoods

Aquarium dealers supply two types of lighting arrangements. The simplest includes a glass cover that fits into a lip molded into the plastic trim at the top of the tank. Across this, a long, narrow plastic fixture, called a strip light, holds one or two fluorescent bulbs.

The more elaborate arrangement, called a hood, completely covers the top of the tank. Lighting equipment is mounted inside the hood. Metal halide units and larger fluorescent units should have a ventilation fan to prevent overheating. Dealers offer hoods designed to match the aquarium. Choosing such an ensemble lends a finished, professional look to the tank, making it blend in well with home décor.

Aquarium Metal Halide Lights

Metal halide lights provide plenty of intensity for vigorous plant growth and produce a pleasing visual effect in the aquarium. On the downside, they produce a lot of heat and are expensive compared to a fluorescent system. For a large tank with sun-loving plant varieties, though, metal halide lighting should be your first choice.

Aquarium Fluorescent Bulbs

Fluorescent lighting is the best choice for the Betta aquarium. It fosters plant growth, has a long lamp life, and does not produce a lot of heat. If you are growing live plants, install two fluorescent tubes that are the same length (or as close as possible) as the tank. If you have no plants, a single tube will do.

Plan on replacing fluorescent tubes once a year, whether or not they have burned out, because they grow dimmer with time.

Aquarium Thermometers

Your Bettas need a fairly consistent water temperature, and the only way to be sure they are getting it is with a thermometer. Stick-on aquarium thermometers consist of a peel-and-stick plastic rectangle applied to the outside glass near a corner. Liquid crystal film between the layers of plastic lights up in different spots as the water temperature changes.

Glass or plastic aquarium thermometers filled with red alcohol come with suction cups or hangers to secure them inside the tank. You read the temperature as you do with an ordinary fever or weather thermometer. Place the thermometer where you can easily see it but where it won’t detract from the scene inside the tank.

Aquarium Heaters

There are two types of aquarium heaters: submersible and non-submersible. Submersible heaters are entirely encased in a watertight glass tube. Nonsubmersible heaters hang on the tank’s frame; the glass tube rests in the water, but the unit must never be fully submerged. Both types work the same way: A thermostat turns the heating element on and off in response to the temperature, just like your furnace. Always follow the manufacturer’s directions to set the temperature to the desired range. (For Bettas, the range is 79 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit.)

A general rule for determining heater size is to get 5 watts of heater per gallon of water. So a 20-gallon aquarium needs a heater that is at least 100 watts.

Always make sure to unplug the heater when you remove any water from the tank. If the heater turns on while it is dry, it may get hot enough to crack when you put it back in the water.

Sponge Filter

A sponge filter draws aquarium water through a large sponge that acts as a biological medium after beneficial bacteria gather on its surface. This type of simple filter is often used in quarantine, hospital, and fry tanks.

Fluidized Bed Filter

Compact fluidized bed filters use sand as the filter medium. Water pumped through the filter keeps the sand suspended as a loose slurry. The sand provides an enormous amount of surface area on which beneficial bacteria can multiply. Constantly tumbled in the flowing water, the sand becomes what is known as a fluidized bed. The sand grains are always surrounded by oxygenated water, resulting in an excellent transfer of ammonia to the bacterial film. Gas exchange is also facilitated by this design.

A fluidized bed filter will respond quickly to extreme changes in ammonia levels caused by overstocking and overfeeding, but for routine aquarium filtration it may be more trouble to maintain than other types of filters.